Through the Shenandoahs… Part 1?

As I mentioned in my last update, there was a fire in the southern section of The Shenandoah National Forest just north of Waynesboro.  It burned over 10,000 acres over the course of a week, and it straddled Skyline Drive and The Appalachian Trail.  In response, volunteers were shuttling hikers around the affected area.  The Appalachian Trail Convention decreed that for the duration of the fire, hikers skipping the affected portion were to be considered to have done “the whole trail.”

So, my trip out of Waynesboro was by car with a volunteer named Sandy driving and another hiker (“Odysseus”) in the back seat.  She dropped us off at the ranger station where we could fill out permits, and off we went.

Through most of The Shenandoahs, The Trail parallels Skyline Drive, often within feet of it.  This means that many of the roadside amenities available to drivers are also available to hikers.  Like Waysides.  Waysides are complexes along Skyline Drive that combine gas station, gift shop, supplies, and – most importantly for hikers – hot food.

Breakfast at Big Meadows Wayside

My first experience with the joys of the wayside was my second morning in the park.  I woke up in rain and packed all my stuff, then trudged north through increasingly heavy rain.  After about two hours of this, I reached the turn-off for Big Meadows Wayside.  .2 miles to the road, then .2 miles down, and I was taking my pack off at the doorway.  I sat down in the restaurant, ordered eggs, potatoes, pancakes, and hot tea.  Then I sat in the warm, dry restaurant eating this lovely meal while watching the rain fall outside.

It felt a little like cheating, but I didn’t care.

Later in the day, I came across Skyland, a resort complex.  The building housing the dining room also contained a bar, gift shop, and coffee shop.  In the restaurant I found Puzzles, Odysseus, and Rooster.  I ordered half a chicken (fried) with mashed potatoes and broccoli.  Our plates completely cleaned, we all adjourned to the coffee shop where I had a huge chocolate cookie and a cup of hot tea.  Then to the bar where Odysseus and Rooster ordered beers.  Then back to the coffee shop for cinnamon rolls.

It felt a LOT like cheating, and I really, really didn’t care.

The Crew: Dirtface, Doubledip, Puzzles, Odysseus, & Rooster

Most of the rest of the hike was pretty uneventful, easy miles, constantly bumping into people I know, and rain and mist.  The air was so wet the entire time that my mustache and beard dripped constantly, my pack and tent were completely water logged, and my shoes and pants never fully dried.  I also never saw anything more than 30 ft off the trail.  Overlooks were a joke, all white-out at each one.  I did feel sun on my skin twice, but only for a few moments each time.  I bought some post cards so I had some idea what I was hiking though.

Foggy hiking

Misty evening

Green coming to Shenandoah

So now I’m at a delightful B&B 100 yards off the trail, just north of the park boundary.  Tonight I’m spending with cousin Paul, then it’s on to Harper’s Ferry and a much-deserved break.

The fire is out now and the trail open.  I’m still thinking about whether and how to hike the missed section.   Stay tuned.